PLUMBING
These are a life-saver when boondocking. They are 5.3 gallons each, and I carry four. They are lightweight, collapse flat and are very durable (double walled). I carry them between the front seats when I want to extend my dry camping (by dumping or pumping the water into my fresh water tank when it gets low).
I love this hose! It’s very light and folds up with ease (there’s no need to loop it like a traditional hose). It’s rated for marine / RV fresh water use and has officially replaced my original Camco white hose.
I have several of these brass quick connects on my hoses and fittings. Very high quality and they have never leaked. Most useful place for these is on either end of the fresh water hose.
This replacement water pump is identical to the OEM “F65” version (with the exception of the white OEM connector plug). This “A65” version comes in a simple brown box (typically sent straight to RV manufacturers). The “E65” version is identical, but comes in a colorful retail box. The pump itself is the same in all versions.
Since the city water pressure varies in each campground, a water pressure regulator will save your plumbing from a high pressure blowout.
A water flow meter counts the gallons of water entering your RV. Example of use: if your fresh water tank is empty, and you determine you want to take on no more than 12 gallons (100 lbs.), you can watch the flow and stop when you reach the desired number in gallons (similar to a gas pump).
These work great filtering the city water before it enters your RV plumbing or tanks. Be sure to connect to the supply and flush water through them first before connecting the hose to the RV.
I keep this attached to the fresh water inlet in the service bay at all times with a quick connect on the opposite end. When I’m ready to hook up to city water, I drop the open end through the hole in the service bay and connect to my hose with a quick connect.
I use one of these on either side of my water pressure regulator and filter. I leave them all attached together at all times so I can store and retrieve the whole “chain” as a single unit.
This device connects any hose to unthreaded faucets or those with stripped threads. It’s a life-saver if you need to fill your fresh water tank and your hose won’t connect to the hook-up for either of these reasons.
This tool helps with the annual maintenance of your water heater tank. Attach this wand to a garden hose and insert into drain opening. It lifts and cleans the sediment that collects at the bottom of your water heater, extending its life. Includes shut off valve.
If you fill your fresh water tank via the gravity fill, this makes the job easier. This pigtail attaches to the end of your water hose and the clear plastic tube slips into the gravity fill hole.
Adding this with a “T” anywhere on your cold water line keeps a constant pressure in both your hot and cold lines, eliminating the pulsing from the pump. The pump then pressurizes this tank whenever it gets low. For installation details, click here.
This is flexible and lightweight garden hose is dedicated for the black tank flush (San-T-Flush is the model on my rig). I store it in a dedicated plastic bin in a driver side basement bay.
Game changer! Only wish I did it sooner. With the push of a button, I can dump my black tank and be assured with a visual indicator that the valve closes completely after dumping. To see details about my install, click here.
This is the standard waste tank valve common on many motorhomes. Over time, the seals can become dirty, sticky and even blocked with debris causing a leaky seal when closed. Mine was getting difficult to operate despite occasional lubrication, so I proactively replaced it when it was 5 years old. For installation details, click here.
If your gray or black tank valves ever failed, this valve would save the day! It twists on where the sewer cap normally goes and provides a final valve before your sewer hose. I don’t keep this installed, but it’s one of the few “emergency” items that I carry.
This flexible coupler connects 3” sewer fittings under the motorhome. Over time, they become dry and cracked and can eventually leak (you can visually check them easily). I replaced mine proactively at 5 years old. For installation details, click here.
This 20’ version of the best-in-class RhinoFlex sewer hose is actually two 10’ sections. I upgraded to this version because my prior 15’ RhinoFlex hose was almost always too long. Now, I have a shorter (10’) version most of the time, and a longer 10’ extension when needed. The clear elbow is helpful in monitoring the status of the job at hand. The quality of the fittings will give you confidence that the seals are tight.
I leave this 5’ section attached to my 10’ section and two fittings. I only use the length that I need. I keep the extra 10’ section (that was included in the 20’ package) as a backup. Great combination!
If you have the RhinoFlex sewer hose, you need one of these! It extends the clear elbow and allows you to securely reach the orange 4-in-1 adaptor in a recessed dump station.
Have you ever had a hard time unscrewing the cap on a sewer cleanout plug at a campground? Or has your threaded RhinoFLEX adaptor ever been hard to remove from the sewer connection? This 6-in-1 wrench solves all of these problems and more. Check out this video from the Amazon product page for more info.
Have you ever struggled to twist off the RV sewer cap when dumping? This product replaces the original sewer connection cap. The built-in handle gives you the leverage that the original cap was lacking. This should have been standard!
This product helps keep the sewer hose off the ground and oriented in a downward sloping position toward the campground’s sewer connection. I only use this when at a full-hookup site for more than one night.
www.dwincorp.com/product/super-slider-adjustable-super-tube
Alternative version: Valterra Adjustable Hose Carrier
This is one of my favorite products — it keeps the unsanitary sewer hose on the outside of the RV while simultaneously freeing up space in the basement bays for other things. For a step-by-step installation of this product, click here to see the mod in position.
As a final touch to the installation of the D&W Sewer Hose Carrier, I’d recommend clipping these small stainless carabiners in the latch holes in either side of the carrier to ensure the doors never open unintentionally.
I replaced the Culligan under-sink water filter with this model which is a much more powerful system; it reduces 99% lead, 99% microbial cysts, 97% chlorine taste & odor, 0.5 microns of sand, sediment, rust & soil.
This water-saver valve connects to the shower head hose and operates much more easily than the valve built-in to the shower head.
This check valve helps solve the problem of a full fresh water tank spilling out the side of the RV. This goes on the “vent” line and still allows air to come in, but won’t let water to go out.
The water heater drain plug is one of the lowest points in the plumbing system. If it leaks or fails, the hot water heater tank will drain, and the water pump will try to replenish it from your fresh water tank. This is the compatible back-up for the 6-gallon Atwood water heater.
Easily attaches to hose ends to keep out bugs and dirt. Vent holes to inhibit bacteria growth.